Hawai'i and Her Magic: What Island Life Is Like

It’s no secret that Hawai’i is a beautiful and enchanting place. The ocean is rarely out of earshot. We’ve seen sea turtles on our beach trips more times than not. The beaches are pristine, and the palm trees sway in rhythm. They lull you to sleep on the song of an island breeze. As we were riding the bus yesterday, one side of the road was lined by a white sand beach and the other was a breathtaking view of the mountains, all dressed up in their Sunday green. Pictures never do this place justice, but I take them anyway.

I want to talk about what those pictures could never capture, what it’s really like to be on Oahu. And how it compares to living in Maine. Some things might seem obvious, while others are surprising and unexpectedly noticeable.

So, these are the five main points of interest I noticed in the culture and environment of Oahu.

1. Each Part of the Island Has Different Climates

The only generalization I can make for Oahu is that it’s hot and humid pretty much anywhere you go, especially in the summer. However, different areas on the island have different amounts of rainfall, which either contributes to or diminishes the humidity. This is because of the two large mountain ranges that span the length of the mountain (caused by the hot spots that formed the island). The wind coming from the east hits the first mountain range and goes around the north and the south end. This brings rain. Then it is completely blocked from the second mountain range to the west, so the rain stops just over the side of the mountains. On the farm we WWOOFed at, on the leeward side, it rains about 8 inches annually, mostly in the winter. The biome, in the summer, is more characteristic of a savanna - dehydrated grass, few natural trees, and an intense, dry heat. The soil is loose, and is easily swept up in the breeze (if there is any). Meanwhile, here on the north shore, it rains every day, several times a day, even if the sun is still out (with daily rainbows, of course). Our cabin is surrounded by vibrant, verdant papaya, avocado, and hibiscus trees. Sit long enough on the bus and you’ll think you’ve accidentally traveled to a different island.

2. The Island Calls You Home

The native Hawaiians believe that humans and the land are siblings; the land takes care of us as we do the land. This creates the sense of magic and spirit (mana) here. Many people I’ve talked to said that the island called to them, especially those who have visited in the past and are returning. Being on a small island surrounded by thousands of miles of ocean all around, Hawai’i is where you come to forget that the rest of the world exists. It’s just exotic-feeling enough to seem like another world entirely, but relatively accessible. Gorgeous beaches, palm trees everywhere, relaxed, go-with-the-flow island culture - no wonder it’s viewed as an escape. It’s a joy to step outside and see the cotton candy sunset shining on the sea. We have papaya trees growing right next to our cabin. We feel nurtured by the land here. It’s refreshing, to say the least.

3. Vast Population Diversity

I mention it because, even though I was expecting this, I was happy to actually be around many different types of people. I’ve gotten to hear so many new perspectives and be humbled by what they had to say. Hawaii has such strong Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Polynesian, and Hispanic populations, given its location. It’s refreshing, and comforting. There’s amazing blends of each culture, like spam musubi or Korean barbecue pork. The people always add dimension to any place.

4. The Effects Of Colonization Are Very Tangible

Since colonization, the native Hawaiian population has decreased dramatically in Hawai'i. Many of them are relegated out of the bigger cities because of the immense stronghold that the tourism industry has on these islands. The commercialization of Hawaiian culture and marketing of it as a “paradise getaway” resulted in diluting sacred Hawaiian practices like hula dancing, wearing leis, and eating taro into figurines, trinkets, and ‘exotic’ snacks, all on sale for only $19.99. Tourism has driven up the taxes, housing market, gas prices, and more, leaving locals struggling to get by. For example, Maui is currently experiencing a drought. The government is rationing the water for residents, but not for hotels or tourists. Their government (i.e. the U.S. government) tends to favor the tourism industry in queries of profit and eco-sustainability. “Surprising” as this is, many locals are still rightfully upset, though how much the government chooses to consider their concerns is still up for debate.

There is so much beauty and spirit here that is being profited off of, it makes me feel guilty sometimes for consuming it. From the beginning of my trip, I’ve wondered whether or not I’m part of the problem or the solution? I’d like to imagine the former, but I can’t always be sure. It’s a question I constantly ask myself, as a way of being mindful, and of voting with my wallet.

Some native Hawaiians hope to end their economy’s dependence on tourism one day. Some even think Hawai’i should be its own nation, separate from the United States. Others are simply frustrated but don’t necessarily mind the way things are. It goes to show that even among a single population, there is diversity of opinion. I’m thankful to be able to learn from them and their perspectives.

5. Hawai'i Is What You Make Of It

No one else but you is going to make your time here perfect. And likely no one charging an arm and a leg is going to give you the “authentic” Hawaiian experience (whatever that’s supposed to be). That being said, if you want to have that Disney/Hilton/Sheraton wow-I’m-wearing-a-lei-and-drinking-out-of-a-coconut experience, you will get exactly that.

But if you go looking, if you venture off the resort deeper into the island, the leeward side, the windward side, the corner store poke and taro tapioca, the surfers and the farmers, if you put in the effort, you will find aloha - real, Grade-A aloha. Don’t just drink a pre-made smoothie out of a coconut, ask a local to show you how to open one yourself. Don’t just sit in a heated pool, go find new beaches and watch the surfers. There’s so much aloha spirit here, but it’s not something that can be manufactured or sold. It’s something you feel in your heart. It’s out there, just not at the Marriott. You just have to get a little lost to find it. Isn’t that the beauty of traveling?

The big takeaway here: find the aloha spirit. Because that’s the real thing that calls people here. Go looking, take long drives (or in my case, bus rides), snorkel all along the coast, go to the quirkiest cafes and dives you can find, challenge yourself. It’s the diamonds in the ruff that bring us the most fulfillment.

Good luck! And aloha.